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when you reach the 115s thereabouts, there's only one viable choice (based the sewing kit list, info section on item creation success % and exceptional % at your skill level).. make studded samurai Do (body piece) all the way...
good luck! don't bother w bone. period. just get a big ol' pile of leather and keep on making studded Do.. the gains may appear stuck at times, but it's how i and many others hit 120.. eventually haha